Profit / Loss — Did That Trade Actually Make Money?
A sale price higher than your buy price can still lose Credits once the 10% seller fee comes out. Enter what you paid and what you sold for, and this calculator shows your real result.
Profit / Loss Calculator
Compare what you paid against what a sale actually returns once the fee is taken, with ROI and margin.
Result
Formula
net = sell × (1 − fee%) profit = net − buy ROI = profit ÷ buy × 100 margin = profit ÷ sell × 100
Example: bought at 6,000, sold at 10,000 with a 10% fee. Net is 9,000, profit 3,000, ROI 50%, margin 30%.
ROI measures the return on what you tied up. Margin measures how much of the sale price you kept. They answer different questions.

//- 01 - HOW IT WORKS
HOW IT WORKS
- Enter what you paid for the item — or what you plan to pay.
- Enter the price it sold for, or the price you hope to sell it at.
- The calculator takes the 10% seller fee off the sale price, then compares what you actually receive against what you paid.

//- 02 - TIPS FOR BETTER RESULTS
TIPS FOR BETTER RESULTS
- Judge every trade on what you receive, not the headline sale price — the fee always comes out of the seller’s side.
- Example: buy at 8,000 and sell at 10,000 (both illustrative). The fee takes 1,000, you receive 9,000, so the real profit is 1,000 Credits — not 2,000.
- A sale needs to beat your buy price by more than the fee just to break even — roughly 11.1% higher, not 10%.
- Remember resale timing: an item you buy cannot be relisted for 15 days, so no flip is ever instant. Factor the wait into any plan.
- Test a few sell prices before you list. Small price changes move the result less than the fee does, which is why optimistic pricing rarely rescues a bad buy.
//- 03 - WHEN TO USE THIS TOOL
WHEN TO USE THIS TOOL
Use it twice in every trade’s life. Before you commit, it is a planning tool: enter the price you are considering paying and a realistic resale price, and it tells you whether the trade can work at all once the fee has taken its share. After a sale completes, it becomes an audit: enter what you actually paid and what the item actually sold for, and you get the honest result instead of the flattering one. That second use matters more than it sounds. Traders who only ever check beforehand tend to remember their trades as better than they were, because the gap between sale price and buy price feels like profit. The audit replaces the feeling with a number. Run it across a run of trades rather than a single one and patterns start to appear — the item types that quietly lose Credits, the price ranges where the fee swallows your whole margin — that no single calculation would ever show you.

//- 04 - A WORKED EXAMPLE
A WORKED EXAMPLE
Example — all figures are illustrative. You buy a charm for 6,500 Credits and later sell it for 7,000. On headline numbers that looks like a 500-Credit profit. Run it through the calculator: the 10% fee takes 700 from the sale, so you receive 6,300 — and the real result is a 200-Credit loss. The sale price went up and the trade still lost money, because the rise was smaller than the fee. Now change one number. Buy the same charm at 5,000 and sell it at 6,200: the fee takes 620, you receive 5,580, and the real profit is 580 Credits — less than the 1,200 the headline gap suggests, but genuinely positive. The lesson is not that small margins are hopeless; it is that a margin only exists once it has been measured after the fee, from what you receive, every single time. A useful habit before entering any buy: work out the sell price you would need just to break even — roughly your buy price divided by 0.9 — and only proceed if you honestly believe a buyer will pay more than that.

//- 05 - COMMON MISTAKES
COMMON MISTAKES
- Judging by the headline gap. Sale price minus buy price is not profit until the fee has come out of the sale. If the gap is smaller than 10% of the sale price, the trade lost Credits.
- Testing only your hoped-for price. A plan that works at your dream price and fails at every realistic one is not a plan. Run the price you expect, and the price you fear, before you buy.
- Ignoring the 15-day hold. A bought item cannot be relisted for 15 days, so a quick flip that looks profitable today cannot be executed today. Prices can move while you wait, and the plan has to survive the wait.
- Judging from memory. If you never recorded what you paid, later results get measured against a remembered price that is usually kinder than the real one. Enter real numbers, not recollections.

//- 06 - GOOD TO KNOW
GOOD TO KNOW
This calculator works entirely from the numbers you enter — it does not fetch live prices, and there is no official public price feed for the Marketplace. Ubisoft currently lists the Marketplace as temporarily closed, with no reopening date announced, so treat the result as planning maths for your next trade rather than a record of a sale you can make today.

//- 07 - FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Straight answers
Using the Calculator
Can I use this before I buy an item?
What two numbers do I need before I start?
Should I test more than one sell price?
Does the calculator fetch live prices or connect to my account?
How should I enter an item I got for free, from a drop or a reward?
Results & Real Trades
Why does the calculator show a loss when I sold for more than I paid?
Does the buyer pay any of the fee?
How much higher than my buy price does a sale need to be just to break even?
I just bought an item. When can any profit actually happen?
My result is a small loss. Does that mean selling was a mistake?
//- 08 - RELATED TOOLS
KEEP GOING
- Fee Calculator — see the fee on any single sale price
- Break-Even Calculator — the lowest sale price that returns what you paid
- Order Matching Simulator — see how your order would fill, and at what price