Profit / Loss — Did That Trade Actually Make Money?

A sale price higher than your buy price can still lose Credits once the 10% seller fee comes out. Enter what you paid and what you sold for, and this calculator shows your real result.

Profit / Loss Calculator

Compare what you paid against what a sale actually returns once the fee is taken, with ROI and margin.

Inputs

What the item cost you.

The listed price, before the fee.

Verify the current rate in-game.

Result

Fee taken —
Net you receive —
Profit / loss —
Return on cost —
Margin on sale —

Formula

net    = sell × (1 − fee%)
profit = net − buy
ROI    = profit ÷ buy × 100
margin = profit ÷ sell × 100

Example: bought at 6,000, sold at 10,000 with a 10% fee. Net is 9,000, profit 3,000, ROI 50%, margin 30%.

ROI measures the return on what you tied up. Margin measures how much of the sale price you kept. They answer different questions.

Profit and loss calculator on a trading desk
//- 01 - HOW IT WORKS

HOW IT WORKS

  1. Enter what you paid for the item — or what you plan to pay.
  2. Enter the price it sold for, or the price you hope to sell it at.
  3. The calculator takes the 10% seller fee off the sale price, then compares what you actually receive against what you paid.
Balancing what you paid against what a sale returns
//- 02 - TIPS FOR BETTER RESULTS

TIPS FOR BETTER RESULTS

  • Judge every trade on what you receive, not the headline sale price — the fee always comes out of the seller’s side.
  • Example: buy at 8,000 and sell at 10,000 (both illustrative). The fee takes 1,000, you receive 9,000, so the real profit is 1,000 Credits — not 2,000.
  • A sale needs to beat your buy price by more than the fee just to break even — roughly 11.1% higher, not 10%.
  • Remember resale timing: an item you buy cannot be relisted for 15 days, so no flip is ever instant. Factor the wait into any plan.
  • Test a few sell prices before you list. Small price changes move the result less than the fee does, which is why optimistic pricing rarely rescues a bad buy.
//- 03 - WHEN TO USE THIS TOOL

WHEN TO USE THIS TOOL

Use it twice in every trade’s life. Before you commit, it is a planning tool: enter the price you are considering paying and a realistic resale price, and it tells you whether the trade can work at all once the fee has taken its share. After a sale completes, it becomes an audit: enter what you actually paid and what the item actually sold for, and you get the honest result instead of the flattering one. That second use matters more than it sounds. Traders who only ever check beforehand tend to remember their trades as better than they were, because the gap between sale price and buy price feels like profit. The audit replaces the feeling with a number. Run it across a run of trades rather than a single one and patterns start to appear — the item types that quietly lose Credits, the price ranges where the fee swallows your whole margin — that no single calculation would ever show you.

Reviewing a result that is trending up.
//- 04 - A WORKED EXAMPLE

A WORKED EXAMPLE

Example — all figures are illustrative. You buy a charm for 6,500 Credits and later sell it for 7,000. On headline numbers that looks like a 500-Credit profit. Run it through the calculator: the 10% fee takes 700 from the sale, so you receive 6,300 — and the real result is a 200-Credit loss. The sale price went up and the trade still lost money, because the rise was smaller than the fee. Now change one number. Buy the same charm at 5,000 and sell it at 6,200: the fee takes 620, you receive 5,580, and the real profit is 580 Credits — less than the 1,200 the headline gap suggests, but genuinely positive. The lesson is not that small margins are hopeless; it is that a margin only exists once it has been measured after the fee, from what you receive, every single time. A useful habit before entering any buy: work out the sell price you would need just to break even — roughly your buy price divided by 0.9 — and only proceed if you honestly believe a buyer will pay more than that.

What you paid, and what came back.
//- 05 - COMMON MISTAKES

COMMON MISTAKES

  • Judging by the headline gap. Sale price minus buy price is not profit until the fee has come out of the sale. If the gap is smaller than 10% of the sale price, the trade lost Credits.
  • Testing only your hoped-for price. A plan that works at your dream price and fails at every realistic one is not a plan. Run the price you expect, and the price you fear, before you buy.
  • Ignoring the 15-day hold. A bought item cannot be relisted for 15 days, so a quick flip that looks profitable today cannot be executed today. Prices can move while you wait, and the plan has to survive the wait.
  • Judging from memory. If you never recorded what you paid, later results get measured against a remembered price that is usually kinder than the real one. Enter real numbers, not recollections.
//- 06 - GOOD TO KNOW

GOOD TO KNOW

This calculator works entirely from the numbers you enter — it does not fetch live prices, and there is no official public price feed for the Marketplace. Ubisoft currently lists the Marketplace as temporarily closed, with no reopening date announced, so treat the result as planning maths for your next trade rather than a record of a sale you can make today.

Profit and loss, kept in balance.
//- 07 - FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Straight answers

Using the Calculator

Yes. Enter a planned buy price and a realistic sell price to see whether the trade could work before you commit any Credits to it.
Just two: what you paid for the item (or plan to pay), and what it sold for (or realistically might sell for), both in Credits. The calculator applies the 10% seller fee to the sale price and compares what you would actually receive against your cost — no other inputs are needed.
Yes. Run the price you expect and the price you fear, not just the price you hope for. A trade that only works at your dream price is fragile; one that still works at a pessimistic price has a genuine margin. Seeing both results before you buy costs nothing and changes decisions.
No. It works entirely from the two numbers you enter. There is no official public price feed for the Marketplace and no way for a tool like this to see your inventory or your balance, so honest inputs are what make the result worth anything.
You can enter a buy price of zero, and the calculator will show your result against a zero cost — what you receive after the fee is then effectively all gain. Do check the item’s card first, though: not every item is eligible for trading, and eligibility is Ubisoft’s call, item by item.

Results & Real Trades

Because the 10% fee comes out of your sale price. If the fee is bigger than the gap between your buy price and your sell price, the trade loses Credits. The calculator exists to surface that before it happens — or to explain it honestly afterwards, when the balance lands lower than the sale price led you to expect.
No. The buyer pays the agreed price, and the full fee is deducted from the seller’s proceeds.
About 11.1% higher. Because the fee is charged on the sale price, you keep 90% of it — so the sale price has to be your buy price divided by 0.9 before you have truly recovered your cost. A flat 10% rise is not quite enough, which catches a lot of traders out.
Not immediately. An item you purchase cannot be relisted for 15 days, so the earliest any resale profit can happen is after that hold passes — and prices can move while you wait. On top of that, Ubisoft currently lists the Marketplace as temporarily closed with no reopening date announced, so treat every calculation here as planning for when trading returns.
Not necessarily. Selling below your cost can be a deliberate, sensible choice — freeing up Credits for something you want more, or clearing an item you no longer use. The calculator’s job is to make sure the loss is a decision you made with the number in front of you, not a surprise you discovered afterwards.
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